What does it even mean to copyright a food dish?

Last year, around this time, we noted that the country of Lebanon was trying to claim that it owns hummus and other middle eastern foods, such as falafel, tabouleh and baba gannouj, and that no other country could produce them. It seems that other parts of the world are seeing the same sort of thing, as Malaysia is trying to declare that it owns popular Malaysian dishes, like nasi lemak. It doesn't seem entirely clear what this means, and the article is a bit vague (the title mentions "copyright," but the rest of the article does not). Still, it's certainly yet another sign of the times

So do they expect restaurants to license recipes, or is this just a "bragging rights" thing?